Trullo
ISLINGTON IS THE CHELSEA of north London, minus the peacockery that, at times, renders the King’s Road a parody of itself. It’s a fitting home for Trullo, the gem of an Italian restaurant that’s transcended its small size and essentially ‘local’ character to attain a city-wide reputation.
This is a cross-generational hub in which the young and middle-aged, the conservative and trendy, are equally assured of a warm welcome from a relaxed but ever-attentive team of waiters. Simply but strikingly decorated in black and white, Trullo punches well above its weight when it comes to atmosphere. Seldom less than bustling, it strives to accommodate walk-ins, although booking is, of course, strongly recommended. It’s clear that many diners are regulars. The pervasive mood of good cheer makes it difficult to resist the siren call of the Aperol Spritz as one peruses a tight but elegant menu that privileges quality of seasonal produce and preparation over excessive length. Diverse antipasti – I recommend the chopped Longhorn beef with horseradish crème fraîche and crostini – introduce a selection of fresh pasta dishes, followed by meat or fish from the oven or grill. Desserts are light, reliable and utterly delicious.
Goldilocks herself would be happy here. Neither stingy nor over-facing, helpings leave one feeling satisfied but not uncomfortably stuffed.
See also: Elystan Street, Lpm, Medlar
