Elystan Street
ELYSTAN STREET THE ADDRESS lies at the heart of the most pleasing part of south-west London: polished, but not intimidatingly so. Elystan Street the restaurant incorporates just enough of that authentic ‘neighbourhood’ feel to make it approachable, yet is characterised overall by an unfussy sophistication that accounts for its reputation as one of the most sought-after eateries in Chelsea.
The act of careful calibration behind Elystan Street’s success is only apparent when you really look for it. On the surface, it seems so effortless, so unforced. The décor is elegant but unassuming, the service is friendly but unobtrusive. There are no tablecloths, and nor is there is a bar. Music is blissfully absent. Whether they be working lunches or discreet tête-à-têtes, parties are generally on the small side.
So far, so low-key. The food, however, is sublime. Best summed up as ‘Modern European’, the menus of chef and co-owner Phil Howard showcase the finest seasonal produce cooked to unpretentious perfection. In summer, for example, one can partake of cool almond soup with olives, white peach, cucumber, garlic and grapes, followed by a double-baked cheese soufflé with leeks, mushrooms and truffle. In addition to à la carte, a set lunch menu of three courses is available for just £30. There are few places in London where one can dine so astonishingly well for so astonishingly little.
