Medlar
QUIET BUT IMPECCABLE: that’s Medlar all over. Now in its tenth year of business, this discreet little restaurant at World’s End eschews hype in favour of the occasional rave review and the devotion of monied locals who prize consistency above razzmatazz.
Formerly of the much-mourned Ledbury, manager and co-owner David O’Connor is quite clear about Medlar’s mission: to bring about the perfect alignment of quality food, quality wine and quality service. The menu is Modern European, tilting ever so slightly towards France. Changing with the seasons, it invariably includes a couple of house specialities: duck egg tart with red wine sauce, say, or under blade fillet with Café de Paris snails and béarnaise. The puddings are just as worthy of time and tummy space. Book a table during the summer months and you can choose from the likes of apricot financier with pistachios, or strawberry and prosecco jelly with lemon sorbet. Décor-wise, Medlar takes its cue from the chic interiors of the early Nineties, with a palette of soft greys enlivened with touches of vibrant green. In a sense, this is merely the physical manifestation of its bespoke approach to customer care. The staff are as assiduous or unobtrusive as they feel you and the occasion demand. Taken together, this makes Medlar one of the most sophisticated and, above all, grown-up places to lunch in south-west London.
See also: Elystan Street, Spring, Trullo
