The Delaunay
SINCE THE TURN OF THE MILLENNIUM, Chris Corbin and Jeremy King have scored hit after unstoppable hit with their portfolio of restaurants committed to bringing fine dining at affordable prices to as wide a range of Londoners and tourists as possible. I make no apology for including several of their establishments in this book. Speaking from considerable experience, I’ve found them to be, both individually and as a group, excellent. The younger, less frenetic sibling of The Wolseley, The Delaunay, which sits on Aldwych at the upper end of the Strand, is handily situated to cater to pre- and post-performance theatregoers. It may buzz in the evening, but it’s also a civilised spot in which to take breakfast or brunch.
Your choices are twofold. You can either opt for The Delaunay Counter, which offers drinks, pastries and light snacks throughout the day, no reservation required, or else find a table in the adjacent restaurant, where a greater degree of formality prevails. In both venues, the décor and ambience derive from the grand cafés of Hapsburg Vienna, with dark wood panelling, dull brass, bevelled glass, and marble floors and counters. If you squint, that might just be Sigmund Freud eating smoked salmon and scrambled eggs with Gustav Klimt over at the table in the corner. Full disclosure: I’ve been known to start my day here with a slice of Sachertorte, and calories be damned.
See also: Fischer’s, The Wolseley
