Cecconi’s
A LINK IN AN EVER-LENGTHENING chain that encircles the globe from Amsterdam to Mumbai, this consistently excellent Italian is as fast-paced and stylish as The Wolseley, but somewhat less likely to attract the tourist hordes. No: those one encounters here are a blend of sharply suited businessmen, discreetly lunching ladies and well-heeled shoppers from nearby Bond Street. The shimmering décor adds to the aura of sleek and profoundly metropolitan glamour. Klismos chairs upholstered in arsenic green leather skate across a floor of zebra-striped marble, while walls of mirrored glass glitter with the light reflected from floor-to-ceiling windows that, in fine weather, can be opened to allow tables to spill out onto the pavement beyond.
All in all, it feels very Golden Age Hollywood. That’s a winner in my book. Lest I make Cecconi’s sound too hard-edged for its own good, I draw your attention to an inviting menu that features a host of unpretentious but quite delicious classics. From burrata and gnocchi to carpaccio and veal Milanese, there are few surprises. Everything you would expect is here, cooked to perfection and briskly served by a team of friendly waiters. Fresh and energetic, this is a chic spot in which to find a light but sustaining lunch that will fill you up without leaving you sedated ahead of your afternoon meetings.
See also: Elystan Street, Lpm, Medlar
