Bar Termini
TO WALK THE PAVEMENTS of Old Compton Street at almost any hour of the day is to run a gauntlet of coolly assessing eyes, trained upon one from any number of pubs and cafés. By evening, the swirling mass of customers spills out into the street itself as the points switch from ‘lively’ to downright ‘rowdy’. In truth, it’s not a place I relish.
That said, it’s worth steeling one’s resolve in order to sample the delights of Termini. Situated just off the Charing Cross Road – handy, if you prefer to approach from that direction – this boutique bar is one of the most superior drinking holes in London. With floor-space scarcely larger than a decentsized tablecloth, Termini effectively channels the spirit of Rome or Naples in the heyday of la dolce vita.
Behind its gunboat-coloured façade, waiters in pristine white coats proffer silver trays to the fortunate few to have bagged spots on its sage green banquettes. Those trays operate a shuttle system to the marble-topped bar. And from that bar flow liquid delights in the form of Italian-style coffees and superlative cocktails, such as might have been enjoyed by Mastroianni, Ekberg and Fellini. The list of offerings is not long, but its quality more than compensates for its relative brevity. My favourite is the Garibaldi, a bitter but moreish blend of Campari, bergamot and freshly squeezed orange juice.
See also: Cecconi’s, Brasserie Zédel