
Mr Wolfe’s review of The Latimer
- Mr Wolfe’s favourite
The Spiteri family, en masse: Lorcan in the kitchen, Fin on the drinks. Oxtail with mash and horseradish, and a wine list from Uncharted. Opened this spring and already indispensable.

North Kensington

The Spiteri family, en masse: Lorcan in the kitchen, Fin on the drinks. Oxtail with mash and horseradish, and a wine list from Uncharted. Opened this spring and already indispensable.
Finsbury Park, London5. The PlimsollEd McIlroy is the best landlord in the UK, and his Finsbury Park corner boozer serves the best burger in the land. A proper pub with proper…D
Soho, London9. The DevonshireA Victorian corner pub off Piccadilly Circus, reborn as the most exciting pub in London. Oisín Rogers pulls the best pint of Guinness in…A
Waterloo18. The Anchor & HopeNo bookings, a long wait and worth every minute. Slow-cooked dishes for the table, and a wine list for serious drinkers.C
Westbourne Park19. The CowTom Conran’s Irish-accented pub, a Notting Hill fixture for a quarter of a century. Oysters and Guinness upstairs, Beckham downstairs.E
Clerkenwell20. The EagleWhere the gastropub was born in 1991. The steak sandwich remains a national monument.G
Belgravia21. The GrenadierHidden down a cobbled mews where chauffeurs wash Bentleys. Bloody Marys, Beef Wellington and a ghost who was once an officer. You have to…