William Wolfe
This morning
What to do in London this morning: a Morning Reviver at D.R. Harris, then kippers at The WolseleyThe only coffee shop I’d happily die in: Bar Italia, SohoBest pub on the planet: The Golden Lion, Osmotherley. Don’t tell anyoneShirt shopping is strictly observed in the morningDog-friendly hotel of the week: Chewton Glen (mind the weight limit)The best sausage in London: Jago’s, ChelseaWhat to do in London this morning: a Morning Reviver at D.R. Harris, then kippers at The WolseleyThe only coffee shop I’d happily die in: Bar Italia, SohoBest pub on the planet: The Golden Lion, Osmotherley. Don’t tell anyoneShirt shopping is strictly observed in the morningDog-friendly hotel of the week: Chewton Glen (mind the weight limit)The best sausage in London: Jago’s, Chelsea
william wolfe’s guide to excellent living in london · Morning

Paxton & Whitfield

Food shop, 93 Jermyn Street, SW1Y 6JE

Paxton & Whitfield

93 Jermyn Street, SW1Y 6JE · 020 7930 0259
groceries & provisions

LEAD ME TO JERMYN STREET blindfolded and I’d be able to tell you my whereabouts, thanks to its unmistakeable bouquet of leather, scent and cheese. Paxton & Whitfield may seem an unlikely neighbour for Floris and Tricker’s. To the discerning Londoner, it’s as indispensable as either.

Based on its current premises since 1896, this hallowed cheesemonger has supplied every British monarch since Queen Victoria. Specialising in native cheeses, it has around one hundred varieties behind the counter at any given time. What’s more, the selection is constantly changing, with resident experts on hand to advise customers on the various vintages. Bear in mind that cheese, unlike wine, ages by the day, not by the year, so timing is crucial if you wish to enjoy it at its best.

Unsurprisingly, classic cheeses are most popular, with six tonnes of Stilton shifted every December. Of the younger cheeses – Paxton & Whitfield is constantly on the scout for new suppliers – my favourite is the Baron Bigod brie, which slips off the tongue as easily as silk off a samurai’s blade. The correct accompaniment can be as important at the close of a meal as the right cheese. There’s no need to provide your guests with too many options. Ripe with Bramley apples, plums and, yes, real ale, Paxton & Whitfield’s signature chutney, Nº 93 Ale, will work across your entire board.

See also: Fortnum & Mason

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